I go to Tampa Mall, Michaels, and other local sewing shops each month to buy sewing supplies. One day, my niece, Meesha, joined me to help. I wanted to sew some custom pillow covers. So, I bought some nap velvet fabric.
Curiously, she asked me, ‘Why this fabric, Aunt?’ I told her, “Because this is a napped fabric. It has a fuzzy surface. You see a subtle shine when you glide your palm across it.”
Other fabrics like velvet, fleece, faux, suede, etc., also have these properties. If you are interested in such fabrics, this article is for you! I have explained everything about nap in sewing, its features, types, and more! You will also learn how to cut, sew, and press this fabric.
So, let us move ahead and learn about these fabrics:
What Is Nap In Sewing?
Have you ever touched a baby’s fur blanket? It’s soft, smooth, and plushy. We need to touch it to feel its texture. So, some people call it ‘felt cloth’.
Did you know?
Nap was known as a pile fabric in the 15th century. Many piles of cloth were layered, and the napped fabric loops were woven into layers.
How To Identify Napped Fabric?
- Move your palm across the fabric surface.
- The threads in these fabrics move in one direction when you slide your palm on their surface.
- If a fabric has nap, it feels smoother in one direction.
- It feels rougher when you slide your palm in the opposite direction.
- It also changes its color and shine.
- It looks lighter and shines in one direction.
- Likewise, it looks darker, duller, and non-shiny in the opposite direction.
Here’s The List Of Fabrics That Have Nap:
Like fur, many other fabrics have a nap. I have listed them for you below:
Why Is The Nap Of The Fabric Important? Know Its Features:
1. Direction Of Nap:
Let’s say you have two pieces of fabric with a nap. How will you join them?
If you join them with the nap in opposite directions, it looks very unpleasant.
For a polished look, keep the nap threads in one direction.
For example, you have a plush toy made from velvet or fur. It will look softer and shinier when you move your hand over it in one direction.
It’s because all its pieces are joined with nap in the same direction.
2. Texture:
The texture also depends on how you join these pieces. In napped fabrics, the threads feel smooth in one direction and rough in the other direction.
Always join two pieces with running threads in the same direction for a similar texture.
3. Specific Way Of Cutting:
For cotton fabric, you can flip the fabric to use for the remaining sewing. But it does not apply to napped fabric.
In nap fabrics, cut all fabric panels from the same roll. These fabrics may need more yards than expected.
You also need to pay attention to how you cut this fabric. Ensure you cut all panels in the same direction. This avoids a mismatch in these fabric panels when you stitch them together.
For a fabric roll, I generally cut it downward at the same angle. This helps me maintain consistency throughout the stitching process.
How To Cut Napped Fabric?
- Check the thread direction.
- Find the direction where all the piles feel smoother. This is your ‘top’.
- Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to cut these fabrics. It reduces fraying.
- Align all pieces in your pattern uniformly with the nap.
- Use weights to hold these pieces together till you join them all. This avoids a mismatch in color, glaze, and texture.
- Keep the seam wider. This allows for stretching if required later.
How To Sew Fabrics With Nap?
I keep the following things in mind when I sew these types of fabrics:
Thread:
Use a cotton-wrapped polyester thread to stitch these fabrics. It is strong and flexible enough to sew the pile.
Needle:
Use needle size 70/10 or 90/14. This totally depends on your fabric’s weight and type.
Your chosen needle should be sharp enough. It should penetrate the fabric without pulling or snagging the threads.
My Secret Hack:
I always test the thread and needle on a scrap of nap fabric. This prevents damage to the fabric. After all, prevention is better than cure, right?
Remember These Tips While Sewing Napped Fabric:
- Keep the stitch length slightly larger than usual. This prevents puckering of fabric later. It also gives a tidy appeal.
- Never apply unnecessary pressure to the fabric when sewing. Your machine’s foot will guide it naturally without any flaws.
My Go-to Hacks:
I usually use a walking foot to feed the fabric evenly while sewing.
I also prefer to topstitch these types of fabrics. It’s not only for decoration. These stitches also add more strength to the seams.
Applications Of Napped Fabric:
The main reason behind using nap fabrics is:
Its aesthetics and rich feel!
These fabrics are popular because of the sheen, glaze, and warmth they provide! Let us see where they are most popularly used:
1. Apparel:
Of course! The fashion industry is incomplete without napped fabrics!
Want a glam look? Take nap fabrics into consideration! They are used to make custom gowns, pajamas, flannel shirts, loungewear, etc.
You may often find them in the linings of winter coats and caps. Children’s clothes, brushed denim, velvet dresses, and cotton knit are often also popular in this fabric!
2. Home Decor:
Whether it is upholstery or soft furnishing, napped fabric
For sofa and cushion covers, velvets, corduroy, etc., fit perfectly! For bedding, fabrics like flannel, brushed cotton, and velvet are suitable. I prefer these fabrics for an elegant look in blankets, duvet covers, sheets, etc.
Faux fur, synthetic fur, and velvet are great choices for curtains, sofa throws, etc.
3. Stuffed Toys:
Who doesn’t love plushy toys!
3.1. Minky:
These toys have ‘Minky’ fabric, which gives a super soft, velvety, and plushy feel. It has a one-way nap.
Compared to fur, Minky fabric is denser, squishier, and shorter in texture and length.
Its texture provides a good sensory stimulus to babies and toddlers. It is slightly stretchable. But it does not lose its shape over time. That is why it is used to make stuffed toys.
Some famous fabrics used in these toys include fleece, velvet, fur, velboa, chenille, etc.
3.2. Fleece:
Fleece is more affordable than Minky. It is matte, soft, and fuzzy. You may find this fabric in kids’ pillows, car seat cushions, etc.
3.3. Velboa:
Velboa fabrics also have a soft, warm, and comfy feel.
It has a very short pile. It is a microfiber plush fabric. Many stuffed toys, pet beds, and puppet toys are made using this fabric.
3.4. Chenille:
Chenille fabric has a caterpillar-like appeal. It has a rib-like linear pattern in the nap.
This fabric is tough to sew because it sheds at the edges after you cut it.
You may also find chenille in sofa covers, cushions, dining chairs, etc.
How To Press A Napped Fabric?
The goal is to make a napped fabric look neat and pleasing, not to damage its threads.
If you apply high heat or pressure to these fabrics, you may end up squishing that pile.
Instead, You Can Do This To Press This Fabric:
1. Set your iron to low heat. High heat leaves burnt spots or crushed creases on these fabrics.
2. Use a steam iron or steamer if possible. It’s gentler than a heating iron. In fabrics like velvet, the steam penetrates the pile threads. It lifts the threads, giving them a fresh and neat look.
3. If you are using a regular iron: Keep a towel, muslin cloth, or plain cotton cloth between the napped fabric and the iron. This prevents direct heat on the fabric.
(My secret hack: I keep the fabric’s seam facing downwards on a scrap piece of the same fabric. This is called a pile-up. It protects the main fabric’s surface from unwanted damage.)
4. Use the tip of the iron to flatten the seam and corners of the fabric.
5. Do not drag a heated iron harshly on the cloth’s surface. It will create patches and creases. Instead, move it gently, using a subtle patting motion across its surface.
6. Use a tailor’s ham to press the curved edges.
4 Alternate Ways That I Use To Press Napped Fabric:
1. Steaming:
Some of these fabrics are so delicate. Their threads can burn or leave patches due to extreme heat. So, I use steam instead of pressing.
Hold the iron above the fabric’s surface. Don’t touch the iron to it. The steam does its work!
2. Heating Pad:
Instead of steaming or pressing, you can use a heating pad to flatten delicate napped fabrics, such as velvet, faux fur, etc.
This avoids direct contact of the fabric with high heat.
Gently dab the heating pad on this fabric. Go slow so you cover all the areas and corners. This is one of the best ways to press this fabric without damaging its delicate threads.
3. Fingers:
If you don’t want to use any heating press or steam, the best option is to use your fingers to flatten these fabrics.
For a large piece, move your palm across its surface. Dab it gently while doing this.
Let us say you have a blanket made of this fabric. To flatten the seams, use your fingers with light pressure.
Key Takeaways:
More than 20 fabrics have a nap. The pile of threads in these fabrics is meant to enhance the look! Their unidirectional threads offer a soft, supple appeal.
Whether it is a faux-fur winter cap or a soft plush toy, these fabrics give a warm, snuggly feel! Choose this fabric by touching and feeling it. Always cut these fabrics in one direction.
Also, to maintain their finer look, you must press them once after sewing. No high heat, no harsh pressure. Just gentle patting! I feel steaming is a better and safer option for these fabrics. It prevents creases, burns, or patches.
I hope you got an overall idea of what a nap in fabric is, and how you use it for sewing projects! So, practice more and try stitching these fabrics. If you want more help, you can email me!
Best Luck!❤️
FAQs:
1. How To Find The Nap In The Fabric While Sewing?
It’s more about feeling than finding. Move your hand gently across the piece of fabric to feel the nap. If you feel that the fabric gives a smoother feel, it is the ‘with nap’ direction. Vice versa, if the fabric gives a rougher feel, it is the ‘against nap’ direction.
2. What Happens If You Don’t Cut Napped Fabric In A Specific Direction Or Angle?
The front part of the fabric can look darker and rougher than the back (or vice versa)
